Sophie Barnes
The British Tomato Challenge
Tomatoes are sun-worshippers. They originated in the Andes, but were domesticated in Mexico and then spread to Europe, where they became a staple of Mediterranean cooking. In Britain, we ask them to perform in a climate that is often grey, damp, and cool. That does not mean you cannot grow a delicious crop – far from it. It means you need to stack the odds in your favour. A sunny, sheltered spot is non-negotiable. A south-facing wall or fence is ideal, as it radiates warmth back onto the plants after the sun goes down. If you only have a windy allotment plot, consider a polytunnel or a temporary windbreak. The goal is to give your tomatoes as much warmth and light as possible, and to keep their foliage dry to reduce the risk of blight.
Choosing the Right Varieties for Our Climate
Not all tomatoes are created equal. Some are bred for long, hot seasons; others are tough enough to crop in a British summer. For outdoor growing, look for cold-tolerant, early-maturing varieties. 'Sungold' is a favourite for its sweet, tangerine-coloured cherries, while 'Gardener's Delight' is reliable and productive. 'Ferline' has some resistance to blight, and 'Mountain Magic' is a good choice for cooler regions. If you have a greenhouse, you can be more adventurous with beefsteaks and heritage varieties, but even then, choose types known to set fruit at lower temperatures.
Consider the difference between determinate (bush) and indeterminate (cordon) tomatoes. Bush varieties stay compact and are great for containers or small plots – they need little pruning. Cordon varieties grow tall and need staking and side-shooting. On an allotment, cordons are often more productive per square metre, but they demand more attention.
Siting, Soil, and Support
Tomatoes hate cold, waterlogged roots. Improve your soil with plenty of well-rotted compost or manure the previous autumn. If you grow in containers, use a good-quality peat-free compost and make sure there are drainage holes. Plant out only when the risk of frost has passed – usually late May or early June in most of the UK, later in the north. Harden plants off first.
Give each plant space. Cordons need about 45–60cm between plants; bush varieties can be a little closer. Bury the stem deeper than it was in the pot – tomatoes will grow roots along the buried stem, making the plant stronger. Water the hole before planting, then water again after. Support cordons with a sturdy cane or string, and tie them in loosely as they grow. Bush varieties may need a cage or a few canes to keep fruit off the ground.
Watering, Feeding, and Consistency
This is where many growers come unstuck. Tomatoes are thirsty plants, but they hate extremes. Irregular watering – drying out completely, then flooding – is the main cause of blossom end rot, a nasty black sunken patch on the bottom of the fruit. It is not a disease but a calcium deficiency caused by inconsistent moisture. The fix is simple: water little and often. Aim for moist but not soggy soil. In hot weather, you may need to water twice a day in containers.
Feed regularly once the first truss has set. A high-potassium tomato feed encourages flowers and fruit rather than leaves. Start with a diluted feed every two weeks, then increase to weekly as the plants load up with fruit. Avoid over-feeding with nitrogen, which produces lush foliage at the expense of tomatoes.
Troubleshooting: Blossom End Rot and Other Woes
Beyond blossom end rot, watch for blight – the great British tomato killer. It strikes in warm, wet spells, usually from July onwards. Brown patches on leaves and stems, followed by rotting fruit, are the signs. Remove affected leaves immediately, improve airflow, and consider growing under cover. There is no cure once blight takes hold, so prevention is key. Choose resistant varieties, water at the base (not on the leaves), and avoid overcrowding.
Other issues include magnesium deficiency, which shows as yellowing between the veins of older leaves. A foliar feed of Epsom salts can help. Greenhouse whitefly and red spider mite can be a nuisance under glass; encourage predators like ladybirds and keep humidity up to deter spider mite. Split fruit usually follows heavy rain after a dry spell – another reason for consistent watering.
Ripening, Harvesting, and a Few Final Tips
As summer turns to autumn, you may be left with a lot of green tomatoes. To speed ripening, remove some of the lower leaves so sunlight reaches the fruit, and stop feeding. If frost threatens, pick the green tomatoes and ripen them indoors on a windowsill or in a paper bag with a ripe banana. Never put them in direct sun – they will rot.
Harvest tomatoes when they are fully coloured and slightly soft. They taste best straight from the vine, still warm from the sun. For the best flavour, do not refrigerate them. If you have a glut, make passata, chutney, or roast them with garlic and herbs for the freezer. And remember: even a modest crop of homegrown tomatoes beats anything from the supermarket. With a little care, a sunny corner, and consistent watering, you can enjoy a taste of the Mediterranean right here in Britain.
